If you are referring to restaurants which, under one roof and under one chef, serve the food of multiple areas of India, I would argue that that is not a particularly good thing. Food varies enough across
India, in all sorts of ways ranging from technique, ingredients, flavour preferences, so on and so forth, so that we don't share even a vocabulary for discussing our food. From an Indian's point of view it would be much better if there were a wide range of restaurants individually serving a narrow and coherent range of food.
The emergence of the restaurants focused on southern Indian food of various types is, from that point of view, a good thing. In case anyone missed it, it may be worth noting that I referred to
"southern Indian foods of various types". Southern Indians of the
various types will see that and think, "Hah. Damn northerner." Their classification will be narrower. There is a certain fractal quality to our classification.
(And I ain't no damn northerner. I'm a damn easterner.) .
Indians have impossibly high standards for "good food" of our own cuisines. When we go out to Indian restaurants we do not typically
expect to get great food. I doubt that most of us go out looking for
great Indian food. I think we look for evocation of great Indian food.
I would be reasonably happy if somewhat specialized restaurants
offered evocation not excessively tinged with regretful nostalgia.
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